Three Features in Zhongshan

“三味”中⼭

By QIU Shuhong

作者：丘树宏

中⼭这座城市，或者这座城市的中⼭⼈，能够给⾹港⼈、澳⻔⼈以⾄更⼤范围的⼈那么特别的好感，主要是因为，中⼭⼈或者中⼭市有着“三种味道”，这⾥姑且就先称之为中⼭“三味”吧。

Zhongshan and its people leave a good impression on those from Hongkong, Macau and rest of the world because "three features" embedded in this city and its people.

这个“三味”就是：最有⼈情味的中⼭、最有烟⽕味的中⼭、最有⽂化味的中⼭。

These "three features" are: humanity, earthly life, culture.

2018年6⽉，前来中⼭调研的国务院经济发展研究中⼼副主任、著名经济学家王⼀鸣说，他注意到⼀个很特别的现象，⽆论是⾹港⼈，还是澳⻔⼈，都对中⼭市有⼀种特别的好感。原因是什么？可否三两句话回答清楚这个问题？

In June 2018, WANG Yiming, a well-known economist and deputy director of the Economic Development Research Center of the State Council, pointed out that, he is noting a special phenomenon: both Hong Kong and Macao people have a special and good impression on Zhongshan. What is the reason? Can we explain it in a few words?

本⼈是新中⼭⼈，⾄今在中⼭⽣活了⼗多年，⼀直喜欢研究中⼭和中⼭⼈，并且很有⼀些个⼈⼼得，多数说法也得到了许多⼈的认可。但是，要⽤三两句话来回答这个问题，还真不容易。

I am a new Zhongshan person, and I have been living here for more than a decade.I am interested in studying this city and its people. For this reason, I have got some personal views, which may be echoed by many people. However, it is diffificult indeed to explain the reason in a few words.

然⽽王⼀鸣先⽣的问题，毕竟还是⼀个必须回答的问题，⽽且是⼀个⾮常有意义的问题。因此，两个⽉来，这个事情⼀直萦绕在我的脑海⾥，挥之不去。今天，就尝试着来答⼀答这个考卷吧。

However, one must strive to answer this meaningful question by Mr. WANG Yiming. So, it has been on my mind for two months now. Today, it is my attempt to answer it.

2004年，我从珠海来到中⼭⼯作。这真是个⼈⼀种难得的缘分和福分，因为中⼭古称⾹⼭，当时的⾹⼭包括了珠海和澳⻔地区，我从珠海来到中⼭，其实是来到了⾹⼭的原点。早年我在珠海市⾹洲区⼯作的时候，曾经在⾃⼰名⽚的背后写下两句话：⾹洲：⼀百年前是中国从⼤陆经济⼤陆⽂化⾛向海洋经济海洋⽂化的缩影，改⾰开放后是中国从封闭经济封闭⽂化⾛向开放经济开放⽂化的窗⼝。后来我回到市⾥⼯作，“⾹洲”两字就改成了“珠海”，⽽到了中⼭，⾃然就改成了“中⼭（⾹⼭）”，我确实是来到了⾹⼭的原点了。然⽽这两句话，如果拿来回答王⼀鸣先⽣的问题，其内涵还是不够全⾯的。

Luckily and fortunately, I changed my workplace from Zhuhai to Zhongshan in 2004. Zhongshan was called Xiangshan in ancient times, governing both Zhuhai and Macao. So actually I came to the origin of Xiangshan. Back when I was working in Xiangzhou District in Zhuhai City, I wrote two sentences on the back of my business card: Xiangzhou miniatures the process of China's transition to the marine economy and marine culture from continental economy and continental culture over a century ago, and also reflflects the fact that China has shifted from close economy and closed culture to open economy and open culture after the reform and opening up. Later on I worked in a municipal organ, and I changed "Xiangzhou" to "Zhuhai", and when I came to Zhongshan, I changed it to "Zhongshan (Xiangshan)" accordingly, as I actually came to the origin of Xiangshan. However, these two sentences are not suffificient to answer Mr. WANG Yiming's question.

以往在珠海的时候，来中⼭的机会并不少，因此以为⾃⼰很了解中⼭，⽽真正到了这⾥⼯作⽣活，才发觉⾃⼰其实对中⼭的认识极为肤浅。半年之后，我以⾃⼰的认知，给中⼭⼈说了⼀个“三个不”的段⼦：“基层⼲部不愿意上调、领导⼲部不愿意上镜、⺠营企业不愿意上市”。这当然是从批评的⻆度来说的，是说当时的中⼭⼈⽬光不够远⼤，只重视脚踏实地，缺乏仰望星空。然⽽这批评却带着明显的“褒义”，因为“三个不”的核⼼精神是“务实”，只不过是“务实”得有些过头了。随着时间的推移、时势的变迁，今天这“三个不”现象都已经发⽣了很⼤的变化，如果⽤它来说明中⼭的城市性格，已经是不合时宜了。 

When I worked in Zhuhai, I visited Zhongshan for several times, and I thought I knew Zhongshan very well. But after I came and lived here, I realized that I only had very superfificial knowledge of Zhongshan. Half a year later, with my own understanding, I told Zhongshan people a joke of "Three Don'ts": grass-root government offificials don't want to get promoted, leaders don't want to be on TV, private enterprises don't want to go public. Indeed, it was a criticism of the narrow vision of Zhongshan people who want to stay low and down-to-earth but not willing to look up at the starlit sky. However, this criticism also entails some positive elements, because "Three Don'ts" reflflects a pragmatic spirit--though too pragmatic. But now "three Don'ts" is not true anymore.

随着我在中⼭⼯作⽣活的延续，我⼜对中⼭做了更为全⾯深⼊的分析，近年来形成了中⼭简介的⾃我版本，这也就是许多⼈都知道的“五句话”：“中⼭（⾹⼭）——伟⼈孙中⼭的家乡、中国近代史的摇篮、咸淡⽔⽂化的中⼼、内外源经济的典范、正宗⼴府菜的⿐祖”；最后还有⼀个尾巴：“⼦系中⼭郎，得志不猖狂”。正因为综合具备这些特别⽽重要的⼈⽂素质，中⼭⼈才创造出了“中⼭奇迹”。改⾰开放以来，中⼭⼈以⼴东省⼆⼗⼀个地级以上城市最⼩的市域⾯积，创造了排⾏第五、第六的经济总量，形成了“五位⼀体”协调发展的“中⼭模式”，尤其是专业镇和集群产业发达，⺠营经济成为最重要的⽀撑，⽼百姓⽣活富裕和美。可以说，⽤以上五句话来概括中⼭，应该是很全⾯⽽集中的，但对于回答王⼀鸣先⽣的问题，却显得过于冗⻓繁杂，形象性也不⾜。

As I live and work in Zhongshan longer, I probed further and came up with a more comprehensive and in-depth observation of Zhongshan. Based on this observation, I profifile Zhongshan in fifive sentences : "Zhongshan (Xiangshan) –it is the hometown of the great man Mr. Sun Yat-sen, the cradle of modern Chinese history, the center of Brackish-water Culture, the example of endogenous growth and exogenous growth, the ancestor of authentic canton gourmet, with an ending in local vernacular: 'I am Zhongshan people, who will never be unbridled even after achieving success.'". It is actually these special and important humanistic qualities that create "Zhongshan miracle". Since reform and opening up, Zhongshan ranked fififth or sixth in economic aggregate with the smallest urban area among the 21 cities in Guangdong Province, and formed the "Zhongshan model" under "fifive in one" coordinated development. Zhongshan is particularly strong in private sector, featured by special industrial towns and clustered industries. People here are enjoying an enriched, harmonic and beautiful life here. I guess the above fifive sentences are comprehensive enough to profifile Zhongshan, but too redundant and mundane.

究竟要如何回答王⼀鸣先⽣的问题呢？

How to answer precisely his question?

经过两个⽉的思考，我初步形成了这么⼀个想法：中⼭这座城市，或者这座城市的中⼭⼈，能够给⾹港⼈、澳⻔⼈以⾄更⼤范围的⼈那么特别的好感，主要是因为，中⼭⼈或者中⼭市有着“三种味道”，这⾥姑且就先称之为中⼭“三味”吧。

After pondering the question for two months, now I have an answer: Zhongshan, or its people, leave good and special impression on the people from Hong Kong and Macao and rest of the world because "three features" embedded in this city and its people.

这个“三味”就是：最有⼈情味的中⼭、最有烟⽕味的中⼭、最有⽂化味的中⼭。

These "three features" are: humanity, earthly life, culture.

要说明这“三味”，⽆疑要花⼤量笔墨，在这⾥我试图⽤典型实例法来诠释它，希望能够形成⾜够的说服⼒。

Instead of giving you a lengthy explanation of "three features", I try to illustrate it by some examples.

这个“三味”就是：最有⼈情味的中⼭、最有烟⽕味的中⼭、最有⽂化味的中⼭。先说说“最有⼈情味的中⼭”。其实，哪⼀个族群，哪⼀个城市，都有⼈情味，但中⼭⼈在对⼈慈爱、和善⽅⾯的确更为突出，她是⼀个真正意义上的博爱城市，最具代表性的，就是⾄今已经坚持了31年的“慈善万⼈⾏”。1988年，中⼭市以敬⽼、孝道为主题创设了慈善万⼈⾏，此后每年的元旦之后，全市各级各界，以⾄港澳台乡亲、海外华侨华⼈都为慈善万⼈⾏捐款，⽽后每年的元宵节都在市中⼼举⾏慈善万⼈⾏，全城⾏动，万⼈空巷，做成了⼀个规模盛⼤的慈善嘉年华，国内外观察团包括联合国科教⽂组织都前来观摩考察。⾄今，已经筹集资⾦近⼗五亿元，慈善事业做到了全国各地，获得了国务院的慈善奖。经过三⼗多年的积淀延伸，慈善万⼈⾏业已成为中⼭最具特⾊的城市精神⽂化品牌和新⺠俗，成为中⼭⼈⺠津津乐道的城市名⽚，成为⼴东乃⾄全国红⼗字运动的⼀⾯旗帜。这样⼀个城市，她的⼈情味能不丰厚吗？

Starting with humanity, every ethnic group and city has its own manifestation, but Zhongshan people are outstanding in their kindness and affability. It is a city with love. A good case in point is the "Parade of Charity" that has lasted for 31 years. In 1988, Zhongshan started Parade of Charity with the theme of respecting the elderly and showing fifilial piety. Since then, every year after the New Year's day, people from all walks of life at all levels in the city, and even Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan people and overseas Chinese donate money to this event. Parade of Charity would be held in the downtown during the Lantern Festival. At that time, the whole city acts together. As all people are turning out for this event, the event becomes a big carnival attracting many domestic and international organizations to visit and study, including UNESCO. Up to now, it has raised nearly 1.5 billion Yuan and expanded its presence nationwide. The event has been awarded by the State Council. After 30 years' operation and management, Parade of Charity has become the most featured urban spiritual and cultural brand and new folk custom of Zhongshan, a postcard which Zhongshan people take delight to talk about, and a banner of the Red Cross movement in Guangdong and even in the country. So, can you deny it is a city full of humanity?

再来说说“最有烟⽕味的中⼭”。毋庸置疑，哪⼀个⼈、哪⼀个城市都有烟⽕味，但偏偏中⼭的烟⽕味显得最浓最浓。最具证明的，就是中⼭⼈最讲究做菜，追求美⻝。有⼈说，中⼭菜，加上顺德菜，就是⼴府菜，如此，中⼭菜就应该是⼴府菜的⿐祖。中⼭⼈会做菜是出了名的，各式菜⾊做得出神⼊化。⽐如，1914年，中⼭的华侨将美国的良种鸽⼦带回来，与当地的鸽⼦杂交，培育出⽯岐乳鸽，由此做出了⽯岐乳鸽这道佳肴，⾄今已有104年历史，成为中⼭闻名遐迩的第⼀菜，每年中⼭都要⽣产约五百万只乳鸽。中⼭⼈的吃也是出了名的，这⾥的⼈可以从早吃到晚，⽽且吃得多，且⼤都是家庭消费，是市⺠消费。想当初中央电视台记录频道的负责⼈来中⼭，《⾆尖上的中国》这个选题就是本⼈与他介绍中⼭菜的时候确定的，接着第⼀个作为“⾆尖”系列上央视播出的地⽅美⻝纪录⽚，也是我们中⼭的《味道中⼭》。俗话说⺠以⻝为天，中⼭⼈确实是真正把吃当做了天⼤的事情。这样的城市，烟⽕味不浓才怪呢！

Second is earthly life. No doubt, every person and every city has its own lifestyle, but you can experience the supreme feeling of lifestyle in Zhongshan. The most convincing evidence is the elegant culinary arts and exquisite cuisines that Zhongshan people are pursuing. Some people say that canton cuisine consists of Zhongshan cuisine, and Shunde cuisine, and therefore, Zhongshan cuisine should be regarded as the precursor of canton cuisine. Zhongshan people are famous for their ability to prepare an amazing spread of dishes. In 1914, an overseas Chinese brought back the fifine pigeon of improved breed from the United States to Zhongshan, and cross-bred it with the local pigeon, and then bred the Shiqi squab, the most famous delicacy with a history of 104 years. Every year, Zhongshan outputs about 5 million squabs. Zhongshan people enjoy gourmet throughout the day. As the person-in-charge of CCTV's documentary channel came to Zhongshan, I introduced Zhongshan cuisine to him, and then the topic of "a Bite of China" was determined. Later, "Taste Zhongshan" became the fifirst local food documentary fifilm in "A Bite of China" series broadcasted on CCTV. As the saying goes, food is the paramount necessity of the people, and Zhongshan people particularly consider enjoying food as the most important thing in their life. What a delightful and earthly life!

最后说说“最有⽂化味的中⼭”。中⼭有着典型的咸淡⽔地理，珠江⼋个出海⼝，有五个从⾹⼭地区流过，与南海，与伶仃洋、太平洋交融碰撞，由此产⽣了⼀种特别的咸淡⽔，也由此产⽣了咸淡⽔⽂化。中⼭（⾹⼭）⼈最早感受到海洋⽂化和蓝⾊⽂明，最早⾛出中国看世界、⼜最早从世界回望中国，因此这个地⽅才成为中国近代史和近代⽂化的摇篮。她摇出了⼀代伟⼈孙中⼭，摇出了以孙中⼭、郑观应、容闳、杨殷等为代表的⼀⽀伟⼤的队伍，摇出了以“三⺠主义”、“敢为天下先”“盛世危⾔”为代表的伟⼤的思想。从政治、经济、⽂化、教育、商业、军事、体育等各个⽅⾯，中⼭（⾹⼭）都出现了为近代和当代中国做出开天辟地式贡献的重要⼈物，从⽽使这个地区形成了极富历史标志性意义的⾹⼭⼈⽂。⽑泽东主席和习近平总书记在谈到孔夫⼦的时候，都这样特别 地表述：“从孔夫⼦到孙中⼭……”。孔⼦与孙中⼭，是中华优秀⽂化的重要代表，⽽作为国家和⺠族命题的孙中⼭⽂化，则是既代表了中华优秀传统⽂化，⼜因为吸纳融合了世界先进⽂明⽽更具未来意义。孙中⼭⽂化和⾹⼭⼈⽂，浸润和影响着今天的中⼭和未来的中⼭，全国最早获得联合国⼈居奖、改⾰开放早期珠三⻆的“四⼩⻁”之⼀、⾸批国家⽂明城市、国家历史⽂化名城……⽆不在⽣动⽽典型地诠释着这⼀切。

Last but not least is culture. Zhongshan has a typical geographic position where the fresh water and salt water meet. Five of the eight estuaries of the Pearl River flflow through Xiangshan area to South China sea, Lingdingyang bay and the Pacifific Ocean. The brackish water cultivates a unique culture. People in Zhongshan (Xiangshan) were the fifirst to experience the marine culture and blue civilization, the fifirst to walk out of China to see the world, and also the fifirst to look at China from the outside. That is why Zhongshan becomes the cradle of modern Chinese history and culture. She cradled many great people represented by SUN Yat-sen, ZHENG Guanying, RONG Hong and YANG Yin, and also the great thoughts represented by the "Three People's Principles", "Dare to be the First", and "Warnings in the Blooming Age". Zhongshan (Xiangshan) cultivated many important people in the politic, economic, cultural, educational, commercial, military, sports and other fifields, who made revolutionary contribution to the development of modern and contemporary China. That is how the region has a historical and iconic Xiangshan culture. When speaking of Confucius, both Chairman MAO Zedong and General Secretary XI Jinping hightlighted: "from Confucius to Sun Yat-sen..." . Confucius and Sun Yat-sen are important representatives of China's outstanding culture. Sun Yatsen culture, both a national and ethnic topic, dose not only represent China's outstanding traditional culture, but also adopts a future outlook as it absorbs and integrates the elements of other advanced civilization. Sun Yat-sen culture and Xiangshan culture have infifiltrated and inflfluenced Zhongshan today and are shaping the future. It was the fifirst city in China to win the UN Habitat Award, one of the "four tigers" in the Pearl River Delta in the early stage of reform and opening up, one of the fifirst national civilized cities, and a national historical and cultural city... All of these stories are the perfect illustrations.

⼈情味、烟⽕味、⽂化味“三味”，这就是我向王⼀鸣先⽣回答的作业。当然，这只是我个⼈的体会，不⼀定准确和全⾯，故⽽绝不敢代替任何⼈的看法，正所谓仁者⻅仁，智者⻅智。其实，每⼀个中⼭⼈，每⼀个来过中⼭的客⼈，⼼⽬中都会有⼀个⾃⼰的中⼭，都会有⾃⼰对中⼭的评价的。包括王⼀鸣先⽣，相信他也⼀定有⾃⼰很独到的答案的，我们热切地期待着能早⽇听到他的⾼⻅。

Humanity, earthly life and culture are my answer to Mr. WANG Yiming's question. Of course, this is just my personal opinion, and might not be necessarily accurate and comprehensive. I would never dare to negate any different views. There are a thousand ways to interpret Zhongshan. Actually, every Zhongshan people, every visitor to Zhongshan, have their own impression and feelings about Zhongshan. Even Mr. WANG Yiming, I believe he must have his own answer at heart; we eagerly look forward to hearing his insights in the days to come.